Brake Caliper Mounting & Adjustment – Dual Pivot

Brake Caliper Mounting & Adjustment – Dual Pivot


In this video, we will walk through caliper mounting and adjustment for dual pivot brakes, as well as dual symmetric rim brakes. Make sure you’re watching the caliper mounting
and adjustment video that matches your brake type. If you’re not sure what you’re dealing
with, watch this video. The dual pivot brakes pull from the side,
with each arm having a separate pivot. In one arm the pivot is centered,
in the other arm the pivot is to the side. The dual symmetric pivot caliper looks similar.
It is pulled from the side. However, each arm has its own pivot on the side. The process for both brake systems
is nearly identical, so we’ll walk through the more common dual pivot system, and highlight the difference for the dual symmetric system. Typical tools and supplies may include: hex wrenches and a combination wrench
for brake caliper mounting and pad adjustment, a cable stretcher such as the Park Tool BT-2, torque wrench and bits
to make sure things are properly tight, a screwdriver for brake centering, and a cable cutter for cable trimming
and end cap installation. The calipers secure to the frame with a
threaded stud and nut. Next, we install the wheel and make sure it is fully seated, centered, secured and true. Hold the brake centered to the rim, and secure the nut to manufacturer’s specifications, typically 6-7 newton meters. Getting the calipers close to center now helps
with adjustments later. Feed the cable through the barrel adjuster,
and through the pinch mechanism. Back the barrel adjuster out two or three
turns to allow for later adjustments. Make sure the quick release is in the closed
position. Squeeze the pads to the rim and secure the pinch bolt to manufacturer’s specifications, typically 6-7 newton meters. We’ve removed the tire here so the cameras can
get a better view. An important pad setting is height. For dual
pivot calipers, we pay attention to the swing. This arm is moving upward to the rim, so the lower edge of the pad should strike the lower edge of the braking surface. As the pad thins and wears, it’ll move up the rim surface. The other arm is moving downward toward the rim. Set the top edge of the brake pad to the top edge of the braking surface, but never so high that it contacts the tire. On the dual symmetric system, both arms of the caliper move upward as they approach the rim. Set both sides low on the braking surface. This is the only procedural difference between
the dual symmetric caliper and the dual pivot caliper, so from here on, we’ll work only
with the dual pivot system. Other pad settings include adjusting the face
of the pad to match the face of the rim, although not all pad systems allow for this alignment. There’s also tangent: we want to make sure the front and back edge of the pad are even and finally there’s toe, which adjusts the pad
so there is a slight gap at the back. Setting toe in the pad can help reduce brake squeal, but if the brake doesn’t squeal when
ridden, toe is not needed. A useful way to achieve toe is to apply a
shim at the back of the pad using a rubber band. Note that your pads need to have a convex
and concave spacer system for this to work. We squeeze the lever gently and loosen the pad screw. The pad will self align because of the gentle pressure we’re adding at the lever. Secure the pad to manufacturer’s specification – typically 5 Newton meters. We remove the rubber band and we have our toe. Another way to add toe is simply to loosen the pad, manipulate the arm, hold it, and re-secure the pad. A test to see if it’s tight enough
is to try and twist the pad. Twist hard with one hand,
and if it doesn’t move, it’s tight enough. Now we set pad clearance. Begin by pulling the lever with force to test the cable pinch bolt and settle in the cable system. Next we set pad clearance, which is the gaps between the rim and the pads. Don’t worry about centering the pads,
that will come next. Set pad clearance not by looking at the gaps,
but by feel up at the lever. A brake that is too tight will mean that we
are just barely squeezing the lever and the pads immediately contact the rim. In this case we bring the
barrel adjuster down into the brake, which gives us more cable slack, and moves
the pads away from the rim. On a brake that is too loose, you’ll squeeze
the lever and nearly contact the handlebar here we won’t have enough stopping power.
We never want to touch or get close to the handlebar. We turn the barrel adjuster counterclockwise, drawing out slack and bringing the pads closer to the rim. This is adequate – the pads strike the rim with
at least an inch of travel left at the lever, and we have enough space between the
pads and rim to allow easy centering. Normally, front and rear brakes are set to feel the same. We will now center the pads to the rim. Depending on the model, there are different
techniques to do this. Some models will have a centering screw on the side. Use this screw to move both pads left or right. If the brake looks centered, it is centered. Some models lack a centering screw. In this case, we move the brake with two wrenches: one on the centering flats,
and another wrench on the mounting nut. Move both wrenches the
same direction, and the same amount. Finish by trimming the cable and installing
an end cap. We only need enough cable to grab with a fourth hand,
a little over an inch is fine. And this brake is ready to go. I mean stop. And that concludes the process for brake caliper mounting and adjustment. If you’re looking for help on a different procedure relating to rim brakes, we’ve got a whole series and watch this video for an explanation of how we’ve organized our rim brake video content. Thanks for watching, and be sure to subscribe for the latest from Park Tool.

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54 Replies to “Brake Caliper Mounting & Adjustment – Dual Pivot”

  1. There is no problem for me to fix something in car, e.g. in brake system or suspension, but with bike it's goes much worse
    Thank you for detalied explanation!

  2. After following this tutorial, I find that my pad clearance won't reset after releasing the brake. So everything will be set up and then after testing the brake everything works great, but then after releasing the brake the pads don't release fully? I am not sure what to do to fix this. After playing around with the front brakes, I was able to fix this problem, but I can't seem to figure out what I did to fix it and the back brakes are having this same problem

  3. Thanks a lot for @6:53. It took me a while to find a video that even mentioned this type of caliper brake let alone how to center it. I was beginning to think I might have to bring it to a bike shop to get them centered, but the solution in the video worked great and my pads are centered now.

  4. How good is this "how to" video series? This good: I got my new Specialized Langster boxed, neither tube nor brakes installed. I have no experience whatsoever in such a task. After carefully following the instructions it's all perfectly mounted and ready to roll 🚲 Thank you so much!

  5. Terrifically helpful – clear video, narrative covered all aspects of the operation, and lucid comments and instructions. Many thanks for providing this!

  6. hands down all around  this dude is indisputably the best source for accurate and very detailed information on bikes. you never need to look at other sources on youtube.

  7. Fcken subscribin now m8. This vid. helps me alot. My brake pads wont reach the rim, been searchin for that particular problem for almost 1 hour. This video literally helps me.

  8. I have centered the brakes but my barell adjuster is all the way down into the brake and there is just the minimal amount of clearance. How do I get more slack in the cable to just get more clearance?

  9. So I spent about 2 hours fucking around with the mounting nut till I centered my ultegra brakes. After which I watched this video and noticed the centering screw….

  10. I have an issue with my 6700 rear caliper; everything is centred and the brake shoes are at the absolute lowest in the holders, yet only the drive side is in a safe position to contact the rim, the non-drive side is too high by a couple of mm.

    The bike takes standard drop calipers and the wheels are 50mm deep. Anybody got any advice? So far I'm thinking about taking a Dremel to the shoe slides.

  11. Never realised that those pads have a toe! One of them has always been to badly aligned and the one edge wears so much faster than the other. 2 years being sent to bike shops for services an nobody has ever dealt with it in any way, so i though it was just a flaw of my calipers. You are my hero now. I don't think I'll ever take my bikes to bike shops ever again..! <3 I can perfectly pull it off on my own, especially after having built my fixie! 🙂

  12. Sometimes it is the person , voice mannerisms etc that makes a big impact on teaching. One thing missed in this video which is critical is to turn your bike handle bar fully to one side in order to access the back bolt on the bike forks for the Brake Calipers mount.

  13. When you tighten the cable with the pads to the rim they are on the rim but the next scene they are off the rim. You didn't explain the adjustment after tightening the cable down

  14. I just tightened the mounting nut till it stopped falling to one side and then centred it by hand. Once correctly centred, I then tightened it firmly in place. 
    I couldn't turn the centring flats and mounting nut at the same time for some reason — maybe my wrench was too loose? 
    I'm not so sure it's the correct way, and I hope I've done nothing that could be dangerous later, but the brakes are nicely centred and one of the brake pads no longer rubs against the wheel. 
    Anyway, this video helped me hugely. Even Halfords couldn't do anything about this problem.
    Thanks!

  15. When i try to install my caliper and secure it with 6N/m(or less/more) it gets stuck and one of the levers won't move. I cleaned and greased my caliper, always get same problem. Can't find any solution, please help..:)

  16. Dear Calvin, you are such a great teacher. I am sure it takes you many days, to prepare such a sophisticated procedure for teaching so precisely and concisely. You made my life (and the lives of my children, and neighbours) more enjoyable with these videos. Thanks to you I have learned how to maintain and repair the bikes of my kids, young nephews and many neighbours. Lot of fun for me, and they get to ride their bikes. There are not any bike repair shops within easy and quick reach, so if they have something so simple as a tyre puncture, they simply stop riding their bikes or even abandon them altogether. This makes them unhappy. Now that has changed. Thanks to you, I can get any bike, no matter what its problem, up and running in a few minutes, with unbelievable smiles on the faces of the children who own them. We cannot thank you enough. Ali.

  17. Thanks so much, loved this and having previously always had my pads changed when the bike was serviced, and got ripped off finally decided to do it myself. The back pads were that worn down I wasn't able to just push them out. How much do you value your rims.

  18. I'm looking for a similar video about Rear dual caliper brake assembly, mounting, and adjustment. Anyone else looking for the same?

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