DIY Portable LED Panel (Part 1) – the mechanical build

In this two-part video series I will show you how to create a super bright LED panel whose pure white and warm white LEDs can be dimmed individualy through a control circuit that can also easily be powered by a lithium ion battery pack due to its all metal design and it’s quick release plate socket it is also suitable for outdoor uses so let’s not waste any more time and let’s get started with the mechanical build the LED strip that began this project with was a pure white 5630 LED strip with a nominal voltage of 12V the important thing to know about those 5638 SMD LEDs is that in comparison to more common 3528 leds and 5050 LEDs they feature a light output AKA luminous flux two to six times higher than the other two but also easily draw two to six times more current that means even though they are the brightest of the bunch they also heat up the most which decreases their forward voltage and increases the current draw and thus over time decreases their lifespan to fix that we would need to attach the LED strip on a metal heatsink so that the temperature stays constant as well as the current draw. That is why an aluminum plate with a height of 30 centimeters a width of 40 centimeters and a thickness of two millimeters will be the first main component additionally i got myself two pieces of flatbar aluminum with the length of one meter and dimensions of two centimeters by one centimeter I started off by marking two 30 centimeter pieces and two 38 centimeters pieces with a subscriber and afterwards secured the material to my workbench with a clamp through the help of a simple metal saw it was pretty easy to cut through the soft metal but as a reminder it is always possible to remove excess material later on so always leave a safety gap once all four pieces were created I assembled them to a square shape on top of the aluminum plate only to realize that the flat bars were a bit too long and uneven at the ends so i used a file in combination with a bit of patience to create the required lengths and simultaneously polish the ends afterwards the square-shape fitted decently onto the plate so i continued by marking two spots in the middle of the two shorter bar pieces with a distance of 8.6 cm from the outer edges those measurements were given by the stainless steel handles that I picked up from my local hardware store before hand the longer barpieces though also received two markings each 6.5cm from the left and right edge after creating indentation at the markings with a quick punch i use them as a guide to drill through the material eight times with a 4mm drill bit additionally i used to countersink to create an indentation around the screw holes so that my utilize screw-type could sit flush with the surface once i was certain that the handles screw holes matched well with the newly-created holes I aligned the square pieces at the edges of the aluminum plate and use them as a template to create markings with the 4mm drill bits onto the plate i use those markings as a guide to completely drill through the plate and afterwards mounted of all of our pieces temporarily to it with M4 screws and nuts the result so far looked rather decent so I continued by removing the long bottom piece created a marking and indentation in the exact center of the material and used an 8mm drill bits to create a whole there with the help of a 3/8 inch tap set i created a thread inside the hole which I used to mount a 3/8 inch to one quarter inch adapter which is mandatory to attach the quickly release plate but before reattaching the bottom piece though I used a bit of loctite on the adapter threads to secure it prominently next I removed the two shorter bars in order to create two indentations on each in the middle of them 5mm away from both their outher edges by using a 3.2 millimeter drill bits i created four holes where the indentations used to be and we mounted the flatbars back onto the plate this way I now have guiding holes for the 3.2mm drill bits that needs to enter for the following material for 1.5 cm by using an electric drill a steady hand and a bit of brute force i created the four holes in the longer square pieces afterwards I removed the shorter bars once again used an M4 tap set to create threads in the longer pieces and extended the 3.2 millimeter holes of the shorter pieces to 4mm and countersank their top screw holes after remounting the removed pieces to the plate for the 100th time it was now an easy task to use shorter M4 screws to link the square pieces together and thus increased their structural integrity the last missing component for this build was a piece of acrylic glass the milky white kind to be precise with these measurements not only will it protect the LEDs but also diffuse they’re ligth significantly so I drew a rectangle with a distance of five millimeters from the edges onto the piece of acrylic glass and marked the middle points on the shorter sides and two points 13 centimeters from the left and right edge onto the two longer sides through the help of the 2.5 millimeter drill bit I created six holes in the acrylic glass corresponding to the markings placed it on top of the metal construction and used it just like a template to mark the spots for the required holes in the flat bar pieces so finally for the last time I had to remove all the metal square pieces in order to drill the six 2.5 mm holes through the aluminum and then used an M3 tap set to create a threat inside those holes but while reattaching the square pieces though this time I utilize the previously mentioned handles for the shorter pieces and m4 self-locking nuts for the longer pieces the only thing left to do was to enlarge the previously created 2.5 millimeter holes of the acrylic glass to 3 millimeters remove its protective film and shorten the length of the M4 screws at the back of the aluminum plate at this point we could use small M4 screws to attach the acrylic glass to the metal construction and thus finish the mechanical build but since we still need to place the LEDs inside the panel and wire it all up we might as well leave it open for part two until then don’t forget to like share and subscribe that would be awesome stay creative and I will see you next time with part two

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