Mounting and Leveling Simmons 44 Mag Scope to the Savage Axis – 1000 Yard Budget Rifle


we have arrived at the easiest job in
this whole experiment which is installing the base so I’m using a weaver number
506 it has four screw holes and it comes with a convenient four screws each of
these is going to get a drop of Loctite on the threads and the long screws go in
the back short screws up front I can’t tell if they made these regular
screws because it was cheaper or it was a way to prevent people from over
torquing let’s just call it best of both worlds
of course just like when doing auto work make sure that you go back and check the
torque on each of these tightening one tends to untighten the others before I
proceed with finding my optimum eye relief we need to take a look at a
couple of things on this base I thought this would be straightforward but as
usual things need a little tweaking I put the scope on just to see what would
happen and I did notice that there is a difference in the two different sides of
this rail so if you put this base on with the ejection port on the right side
where it kind of should be you get more rail sticking out front over the barrel
nut and you get less on the backside here so what I did is I had to turn this
around because the bail of my scope was actually knocking against that and when
I was testing my eye relief just a quick little test I’m still getting the same
problem where this is starting to bump against the rail here so what I’m gonna
have to do is actually shave off a little bit of the rail right here just
to give that tiny bit of movement that I need so I’m not bumping against the bail this should give me the extra bit of
relief that I need there are all kinds of calculations out there that make it
seem like it’s complicated to figure out what your eye relief is there are
measurements you can do from your trigger or from your butt pad or
something then I’m going to use the tried-and-true method of just looking
through the scope and what I’ve done is I’ve kind of simulated the environment
that I’m going to be competing in I’m going to be prone I’m going to be on a
high rest so I just have this cheapo plastic rest here to fill in for
whatever I’m gonna use later and what I’m gonna do is I’m just gonna get nice
and comfortably into position close my eyes and then open them and this should
be looking straight through the scope now
I’m finding out one issue already my comb is a little bit low so I’m kind of
looking below the scope right now it’s looking at kind of a dark field I have
to cheat up just a tiny bit in order to see through the scope so I’ll probably
have to put just a a pad of leather or something on here so that I can look
directly through the scope but this distance is looking pretty right on okay
so get off the rifle get on it nice and comfortable open my eyes and there we go
yeah I’m still a little low but I still I have a nice field of view when I
picked my face up just a little bit so this is going to be my eye relief I have
my longitudinal position for the scope all ready to go but I need to make sure
that everything is level before I lock it down and what I’m going to do is I’m
going to assume that this base is my level plane and what I’ve done is I’ve
locked it down in my vise and I’ve used a bubble level here on the the flats
here to make sure that everything is level and this is going to assume that
the reticle inside the scope itself is actually level and what we can do is we
can use the flat on the underside of the scope and as long as we get that level
with this then everything should work out okay this is the flat on the
underside of the scope that I was talking about and not all scopes have
this but most modern ones do so I can use this as long as this is level with
this then everything should be okay the rings that I’ve selected for this
experiment are the weaver quad lock rings they’re very inexpensive but they’re
also quite good one of the things that I really like about these is the squared
off crossbar that fits into the slots in a weaver rail or a Picatinny rail
instead of having a single strap across the top you get these two and I really
have no idea you know what difference having two versus one makes but I’ve
been using these on my varmint rifle for a good long time and they work very well
the thumb studs if you want you can make this kind of a quick-detach set up and
you can just screw these down thumb tight and then pop them off later or you
can cinch these down really good with a screwdriver putting one drop of Loctite
on each of these screws I’m going to pre install these and what I want to do is
make sure that there is equal installation on each of these I want
there to be an equal gap on each side of each ring so what I’ll do is I will turn
each of these a specific number of times I think I’m going to do eight is what I
calculated earlier but eight turns with each to get them roughly in place and
then I’ll screw each one down until they’re even I’ve applied just slight tension to each
of these screws so that the scope can’t flop around but it still can can’t and
we can move it around just a little bit fore and aft as we align the the scope
position up with our tape ring that we established earlier so now what I need
is something that is verifiably flat and this steel ruler it looks like is
working out perfectly well so here I am aligning it to the base and there I am
applying it to the scope and you can see that the bubble level is off so I just
need to twist this until the level is on and that should be right right about
there at this point everything should be correct we have the right longitudinal
position and we have the correct can’t and now it’s the business of tightening
these down evenly on each side to prevent it from canting under the
tension of the screws one nice thing is that as I get this torque down on one of
these rings then that pretty well ensures that this isn’t going to can’t
anymore but one thing I need to watch out for is over tightening I need to
make sure that I am not crushing the tube because this is a one inch aluminum
tube and it can actually crush quite easily and I need to make sure that
there are still those equal gaps on each side of the Ring there are specific torque
recommendations for each of these screws but I do not have a torque wrench that
does inch-pounds so I’m just going to do this by hand and I’m just going to make
sure that I don’t crush things down using my steel ruler I’m affirming that
yes the two are parallel to each other so that’s still looking good but what I
need to do next is verify that everything is plumb since the reticle
could actually be off in here it could actually be canted inside the tube I’m
going to go ahead and verify that by using a string or something else that’s
plumb and I’ll just hang that from my garage door or something and as long as
it goes straight through the reticle and then straight down the center of the
tube as I’m looking through the barrel then I think it should be in good shape
everything’s looking good so far I’ve taken a peek from the back end of the
rifle and things are looking good but we’ll
just take that one last step of verification and then I think we can
call this good to go you

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