Now to that bath panel as you can see we put a few pieces of framework in we`re going to need another couple of uprights we`re going to need to cut the Wedi which is the tile backer that goes on this framework the studwork. this is the access panel to get to the trap you always need one. Sometime somepoint in your life this drain is going to get blocked with hairs from bathing. the access panel sits half on the timber so the line of the tile this is what the access panel is made of. It’s called Wedi tile backer and you can tuck it under the edge of the bath to make it even more secure make sure your bath does not drift around. what I`m going to show you is how we got to put the access panel exactly there also we’re going to show you we gonna have to cut out first for the boxing in to put this access panel in one piece and this is how we set out exactly for that access panel. That would be a quarter bond if we’d folded our bath panel tile from the floor that meant that back from that line exactly a whole tile from the bath panel the line fell here so that’s why we put the batten centre of the line of the tile lines or rows if you like It didn’t have to be too accurate as long as it’s roughly centre that’s good enough for the construction of the access panel for holding the Wedi board. we’ll just cut another upright over here use the Studhawk Saw Guide so quick and easy and beautifully square every time measure that upright mark it off The first cut was just squaring
the length of rough timber up. I’m using sawn timber.
It’s cheaper than plain. Use a Studhawk saw guide. It’s so quick when you’re
doing carcassing. You don’t have to square so many lines. There’s a shot from the other side.
See how the principle works? So simple. Everybody can now cut straight. Just to show you the off-cut
from the boxing in and what the construction
of the tile backer board is. It’s got polystyrene in the middle that’s really hard
and doesn’t compress, and it’s got two layers of fibreglass and a cement coating on each side. That’s what we fix tiles to.
It’s rot proof. And if water can’t get in there, it can’t de-laminate the striations
of the ply. Now because of this tile backer and because we only have
2″ x 1″ lying around we’re going to have to thicken
this frame out a bit to take what we call
Wedi washers so that we’ll have enough space because these are quite big washers
that we fix the cement board
to the framework with. we’re putting another
few bits of batten in, all strengthens your bath panel, strengthens the frame
that the bath sits on and remember, don’t go
through both pieces of timber because of those elements. So choose screws that are exactly
the right length. Now we glue up the blocks
for the bath and that’s so that they
don’t move over time. The feet are easy,
just a little twist into place. And then there are two lock nuts
that you tighten. Screw that one up. You can’t see it quite.
It’s out of view. But there are two nuts there.
You just pinch those together like so. And that’s your bath feet as well as
your frame supporting the bath. Now to the cut out for the access panel. That’s the one piece of Wedi board, and that’s the centre of the tile backer and the bond for the tile. The grout joint, if you like,
is that bottom tile for this access panel.
That’s how big it’s going to be. And now we’re going
to cut the Wedi board. Cut it out in one piece,
but keep it exactly that piece because that’s the piece that fits. It’s very easy,
easier than cutting plasterboard with a saw Just go very gently.
And there we are. Keep your piece the right way. Take them both back in. And get your Wedi washers
and your screws and straight through
to that framework. You want to just indent the Wedi washers
into the cement board and sort of slight dish pulling in so that they’re not
protruding or showing beyond the face
of the cement board. So they do pinch in
to the cement board, and that’s how you want to fix them. Screw your washers up
until they pinch in. Rub your thumb across your field,
nicely dished in and they won’t obstruct your tiling
or push it out. Keep that there
for the access panel. Don’t let it get lost.
As you can see, plenty of space. Plenty of washers,
plenty of rigidity in that panel, ready for tiling. So don’t let it get lost. Remember, put it where it goes. Now we’ve tiled it,
and this is the access panel. We tiled away from the edges of the join so we didn’t get
any adhesive in there. We’re locking
the access panel in place. And this is how it comes out.
Now the tile is set to the same level. So we tiled it, put the spacers in, but just trailed away
from the adhesive line. And we don’t grout this line. What we do is we fill it with silicone, and the silicone matches the grout. And then we cut through
with a utility knife like so and the access panel falls out
if ever required. Here we had a problem,
a lintel in the room that was too thick
and being cast ‘in situ’ badly. The plaster came off the walls,
and it still protruded into the room. So we made a feature out of it
with a keystone. Rather than try and disguise it
on a different level, the client chose
to make it a feature. This nail in the middle
was quite important. It was there to support
the tiles whilst they set overnight
on the edge, and the metal edge supported them. Put the nail in the two edges
of the other uprights. There you can see
made a nice feature.